The following list represents books and articles that I have found helpful in my personal jewelry research. I give all the information I can to aid you in your search for these items, including a description of the work.
Some of these descriptions are entirely my own, but many are quotations taken directly from the books or publications themselves.
Please note that materials are loosely grouped by subject and not all entries in the listing below are presented in a traditional citation format.
Anglo-Saxon | Antiquity | Badges: Pilgrim Souvenirs & Secular | Beads | Bone Carving & Ivories | Brooches | Byzantine | Chain Making | Crowns | Enamels & Enameling | General History | German | Islamic & Middle Eastern | Lapidary | Medieval | Renaissance | Roman Britain | Serbian | Tudor & Stuart Periods | Viking: Scandinavians, Danish & Finnish |
The Art of the Anglo-Saxon Goldsmith: Fine Metalwork in Anglo-Saxon England: its Practice and Practitioners. by Elizabeth Coatsworth and Michael Pinder. Boydell Press: Woodbridge. ISBN: 0851158838. 2002. [Still in print]
The Sutton Hoo Ship-Burial: A Provisional Guide By the British Museum. 1947.
"The Trewhiddle Hoard." by David M. Wilson and C.E. Blunt. appearing in Arcaeologia volume 98 pages 75 - 122.
The Beauty of Holiness: Opus Interrasile from a Late Antique Workshop. by David Buckton,. Jewellery Studies Vol. 1 (1983-1984.) pgs. 15-19 + color photographs on an unnumbered page appearing between pages 64 & 65.
Classical Loop-in-Loop Chains & Their Derivatives
Gold of Troy: Searching for Homer's Fabled City by Irina Antonova, Vladimir Tolstikov & Mikhail Treister. Thames and Hudson. ISBN: 0500017174. Hardcover - 239 pages (1996). [still in print]
This book is the catalogue of the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts' (Moscow) exhibition. The objects in the catalogue are generally thought to date to around the second half of the 3rd millennium BC. This work is generously filled with 275 illustrations, 272 in color most of which show incredible detail of the piece. Each piece is described in detail (basic catalogue entry + paragraphs of prose) with a bibliography referring to the piece and a bibliography of comparative material included for each. A detailed bibliography also appears in the back of the book.
Jewelry of the Ancient World by Jack
Ogden. ISBN: 0847804445. 1982.
A Visual Catalogue of Richard Hattatt's Ancient Brooches
Salisbury & South Wiltshire Museum Medieval Catalogue Part 2 Pilgrim Souvenirs and Secular Badges by Brian Spencer. Salisbury & South Wiltshire Museum; ISBN: 0947535128. 1990. Paperback - 144 pages [Still in print. I ordered mine from a bookseller in London. I could not locate a copy for purchase in the U.S.]
Museum catalog of badges. Full of excellent drawings and useful commentary. A valuable resource on the subject for the artisan interested in creating badges.
Bead Making in Scandinavia in the Middle Ages: Early Medieval Studies 9 by Agneta Lundström. Almqvist & Wiksell International Stockholm; ISBN: 91-7402-014-5. Paperback - 25 pages (I do not have the publication date). [out of print. I have selections from this book.]
An archeological study focusing on the investigation of the, "various groups of material which are of importance for bead making" based on the findings in two, "early Nordic nucleated settlements," Helgö in Lake Mälar and Paviken on Gotland. Also discussed is, "the role of the different groups of material in the technical process of bead making," and a discussion on, "which beads can be described as the manufactured products of the various sites" is included. (from pages 3 and 4). A listing of related literature is available, but most sources are not in English.
The Glass Beads Anglo-Saxon England c. A.D. 400-700.:A Preliminary Visual Classification of the More Definitive And Diagnostic Types by Margaret Guido, edited by Martin Welch . The Society of Antiquaries of London, London; ISBN: 08-5115-718-1. Hardback - (I do not have the publication date). [out of print.]
An archeological classification focusing on the investigation and classification of glass beads from approximately c. 400 A.D. - 700 A.D.. The classification concentrates on the grouping beads by colors used. Much of the book is a catalog of extant beads of more interest to the archeologist, perhaps, than the artisan, but the first half of the book is invaluable for its discussion of bead shapes and colors used. Color plates are included along with several line drawings and a bibliography. Highly recommended.
Viking Heritage Magazine 3/2003 issue. The back issue is available for purchase at the magazine's website. Consider a subscription if you are a Viking researcher. It is an excellent and concise publication.
"Beads from the Early Urban Settlement at Kaupang, Vestfold, in Norway" by Gry Wiker. Appearing in Viking Heritage Magazine. 3/03 pgs. 24-27.
"The glass bead material from Ribe, Denmark." by Torben Sode. Appearing in Viking Heritage Magazine. 3/03 pgs. 17-220. A section of this article is available online at no cost (scroll to page 9 of 13). The selection of the article is worth looking at just for the photographs.
"The glass beads from Viking age Wolin" (Poland) by Błażej M. Stansławski. Appearing in Viking Heritage Magazine. 3/03 pg. 21.
"A tool for making beads" by Malin Lindquist. Photo By Raymond Hedström. Appearing in Viking Heritage Magazine. 3/03 pg. 20 (1/2 page article and photograph).
"Viking Beads from Gotland" by Dan Carlsson. Appearing in Viking Heritage Magazine. 3/03 pgs. 22-23.
The History of Beads : From 30,000 B.C. to the Present by Lois Sherr Dubin, Robert K. Liu. Harry N Abrams; ISBN: 0810907364. Hardcover edition - 364 pages (October 1987). [still in print]
The History of Beads : From 30,000 B.C. to the
Present Concise Edition by Lois Sherr Dubin, Robert K. Liu.
Harry N Abrams; ISBN:0810981785. Paperback abridged edition - 136 pages (October
1998). [still in
print]
This book is the first comprehensive history of beads. "In fifteen
chapters, the dominant historical, geographic, and thematic features of beads
are examined for their historical information, their impact on cultural
cross-fertilization, and the light they shed on the ritualistic practices of
various peoples." Special chapters are included on "the special
beads: amber and pearls" & "the magical eye bead." An eight
page foldout bead chart (included in both editions) places full color
photographs of important bead types in a historical timeline. Also
included is a bead shape table, a glossary, extensive notes, bibliography, and
index. The book is generously illustrated with 356 photographs, 254 in
full color, technical diagrams (not in concise edition), 15 maps of bead sources
and distribution patterns (not in concise edition). This is the book to own on historical beads.
Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London No. XXXV. The Glass Beads of the Prehistoric and Roman Periods in Britain and Ireland by Margaret Guido. The Society of Antiquaries of London, London; 1978. ISBN: 05-0099-026-3. Hardback - (I do not have the publication date). [out of print. I have selections from this book.]
An archeological study focusing on the investigation and classification of glass beads from approximately c. 700 B.C. - A..D. 410. The study concentrates on the techniques used, forms and uses of the beads and their decoration, methods of manufacture, & colors used. Much of the book is a catalog of extant beads of more interest to the archeologist, perhaps, than the artisan, but the first half of the book is invaluable for its discussion of bead shapes and colors used. Color plates are included along with several line drawings and a bibliography. Highly recommended.
"A Study of Metal Foiled Glass Beads from the Viking Period." by E.E. Astrup & Arnfinn G. Andersen. Appearing in Acta Archaeologica. (verifying year and volume information) pgs. 222-228.
(abstract from the article) Metal foiled glass beads from the Viking Period have been studied by optical and electron microscopy as well as by chemical analyses. Several beads from Kaupang have been investigated, and a couple of beads from Birka have been included for comparison. The beads consist of a glass core. A think metal layer is found between the core and an outer layer of homogeneous, transparent glass. In all the investigated beads the metal layer is found to be silver. While the silver-like beads have an uncoloured outer glass layer, the gold-like beads are provided with a yellow/amber coloured glass layer.
Viking Beads from the Fröjel Port of Trade. CD from Arkeodok.
Bone, Antler, Ivory & Horn: The Technology of Skeletal Materials Since the Roman Period by Arthur MacGregor. Barnes & Noble Books, Totowa, NJ; ISBN: 0389205311. 244 pages
Covers: Raw materials, their availability, investigation the handicraft and industry of the working of the materials, working methods and tools: cutting, splitting, smoothing, polishing, turning, drilling, scribing, rouletting, gauging, clamping, riveting softening, moulding, colouring; review of skeletal artifacts including: combs, mirror cases, toilet sets, buttons, beads, toggles, buckles, strap-ends, 'bag rings', bracelets, pins, writing implements, seal matrices, coin balances, dice, gaming pieces, whistles, flutes, blast horns, drinking horns, powder horns, other horn containers, horn helmets, bows and arrow heads, hilts, implement handles, hammers, clamps, planes, cleavers, rakes, scoops, spoons, knives, brushes, bobbins, stamps. moulds, mounts, caskets & hinges. Includes a bibliography and index. highly recommended.
Byzantine Studies: Volume Three Ivories and Steatites
Gothic Ivories of the 13th and 14th Centuries by Joseph Natanson. Alec Tiranti Ltd: London. 195.
Ivories of the West by Massimo Carrà. The Hamlyn House: London. ISBN:600348024. 1966
A Visual Catalogue of Richard Hattatt's Ancient Brooches. Oxbow Books, Oxford; ISBN: 1842170260. paperback edition - 400 pages (2000). [still in print.]
"Richard Hattatt had a lifelong interest in archeology...focused on brooches. He rapidly built up an important collection. The lack of easily obtainable reference books prompted him to write his own--four of them. Each brooch is described in detail and illustrated with a meticulous drawing, and there are lots of additional notes on comparable types. His four books remain a record of the collection (that has now been deposited in museums and sold privately.) The 'Visual Catalogue' is a last-minute addition to his fourth book; he prepared it originally for his own use, and realizing how often he used it, he decided to include it in the book."
This book is a visual index to the previous four books. Thousands of detailed drawings of brooches from all angles are collocated in this volume. Each diagram is keyed to the archeological dig site information and the the work more details on the piece can be found. An excellent reference. I anticipate interlibrary loaning the other volumes as needs arise for details on an individual piece.
Richard Hattat's four books are:
Ancient and
Romano-British Brooches (1982)
Iron Age and Roman Brooches (1985)
Brooches of Antiquity (1987)
Ancient Brooches and Other Artifacts (1989)
Byzantine Studies: Volume One Metalwork, Ceramics, Glass, Glyptics, Painting by Marvin C. Ross. Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection: Washington, D.C. 1962.
Byzantine Studies: Volume Three Ivories and Steatites by Kurt Weitzmann. Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection: Washington, D.C. 1972.
Byzantine Women and Their World by Ioli Kalavrezou. Harvard University Press: New Haven. ISBN: 1891771280. 2003 [Still in print]
The Gold Breast Chain From the Early Byzantine Period in the Römisch-Germainsches Zentralmusuem. by Katharine R. Brown. ISBN: 3884670085. 1984.
The Glory of Byzantium: Art and Culture of the Middle Byzantine Era A.D. 843-1261. Edited by Helen C. Evans and William D. Wixom. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York ; ISBN: 0870997785. paperback edition - 574 pages (1997). [still in print.]
The print companion to "the first exhibition to focus exclusively on the Second Gold Age--the critically important medieval era-- of the Byzantine Empire.... [the work] presents similar insights into the art and culture of [this] era through the assembly of a remarkable number of works of the highest artist and cultural standards" (from the preface) This catalog is a rich collection of art and commentary on many mediums used in this period. I highly recommended for artists.
Through a Glass Brightly: Studies in Byzantine and Medieval Art and Archeology Presented to David Buckton. Edited by Chris Entwistle. Oxbow Books, Oxford ; ISBN: 1842170902. (2003). [still in print.]
Covers: Body-chains: Hellenistic to Late Roman, a Universal Sundial in the British Museum, Sources of cloisonné enamel: some early fused gold and glass inlays, the so-called Grado Chair ivories, Personification of the Byzantine empress, three illuminating objects in the Lampsacus treasure, Middle Byzantine stamp seals in semi-precious stone, the production of red glass and enamels, some late 10th and 11th century cloisonné enamel brooches and finger-rings from Denmark.
Birka I: Die Graber. by Holger Arbman.Uppsala: Alqvist & Wiksell, 1940.
Viking archeological finds. This work is in two volumes. There are several interesting photos of extant chains within this book.
Classical Loop-in-Loop Chains & Their Derivatives by Jean Reist Stark & Josephine Reist Smith. Brynmorgen Press; ISBN: 0961598484. Hardcover, spiral edition - 190 pages (1999). [still in print.]
"The ultimate resource for jewelers interested in the fabulous chains of ancient cultures. with clear instructions and foolproof illustrations, Ms. Stark teaches dozens of variations on classic chains.
About the author: "Jean Reist Stark has been a goldsmith and teacher for 29 years, and has been a major force in the recent popularity of ancient goldsmithing techniques. She co-founded the Kulicke-Stark Academy of Jewelry Art in New York City, and taught at Parsons School of Design." (taken from the back cover of the book)"
I saw this book reviewed in Lapidary Journal and I had to have it. It is very well written and clearly illustrated. In all honesty, I have yet to try out any techniques in the book but as soon as I do I'll include my experience on my projects page.
The authors cover the following topics: single loop-in-loop chains (one in one, one direction), pinched loop chains (one in one, perpendicular, one direction), double loop-in-loop chains (one in two, one direction), multidirectional loop-in-loop chains (one in one, two or more directions, one in two, two or more directions), multiple soldered loop-in-loop chains (special techniques used with multiple soldered chains), multiple woven loop-in-loop chains, clasps and terminations. Each chapter teaches several variations on the technique presented, including at least one ancient example and instructions and one modern derivative of the technique (with instructions for replication.) Highly recommended for anyone wishing to learn chain making.
Die Schatzfune Gotlands Der Wikingerzeit.Stockholm by Marten Stenberger. Alqvist & Wiksell, [I don't have the date].
Viking archeological finds. This work is in two volumes. There are several interesting photos of extant chains within this book and discussions on technique. No, I haven't translated it yet.
Die Kronen Europas und ihre
Schicksale by Heinz Biehn
Exhibition catalog of the Crowns of Europe, which took place in Germany, late 1950's, limited edition. Liberally illustrated with photographs which show a great deal of detail.
An Introduction to Medieval Enamels by Marian Campbell. The Victoria and Albert Museum (London). ISBN: 0880450215. Hardback - 50 pages (1983). [out of print. I have selections from this book.]
"Enameling was used in the medieval period to embellish the most revered objects--the alter pieces and reliquaries of cathedrals, the crowns and drinking cups of kings. The technique of enameling, busing coloured glass to a metal surface by intense heat, enabled the metalworker to create an enduring polychrome image and to tell a story as forcefully as any painter." (taken from the back cover of the book)
This book shows the outstanding collection of medieval enamels in the Victoria and Albert Museum (London) with many photographs in full color. The book includes the following sections: technique, early history, Byzantine enamels, Western European enamels, twelfth century enamels in Western Europe, the Gothic period, a listing of further reading is also included.
European Enamels by Isa Belli Bearsali. Paul Hamlyn. London. Hardback - 158 pages (1966).
A introductory work. Includes color photos, catalog entries, discussion and photo credits.
See also Through a Glass Brightly
An Introduction to Brass by Eric Turner. Victoria & Albert Museum. London. ISBN: 088045007x. Hardback (1982.)
Jewelry 7,000 Years: An International History and Illustrates Survey from the Collections of the British Museums. Edited by Hugh Tait. Harry N Abrams; ISBN:0810981033 . Hardback - 255 pages (1991 edition). [This work was out of print, but you can now find copies of it out there again. I did.]
This is one book that is included in every historical jeweler's booklist I have seen--and for good reason. It surveys 7,000 years of "shiny goodness" in beautiful full color, close-up-rich photographs. Not only are the photographs valuable, but the articles are significant and well written. A must have work.
The Sacral Treasure of the Guelphs by Patrick M. De Winter. Cleveland Museum of Art. ISBN: 0910386811. 1985.
Irish Shrines & Reliquaries of the Middle Ages by Raghnall Ó Floinn. National Musuem of Ireland: Dublin. ISBN: 0946172404. 1994.
Metal Craftsmanship in Early Ireland. by Dr. Michael Ryan. Town House and Country House, Dublin.. ISBN: 0-946172-37-4. Paperback-47 pages. 1993. [still in print]
"Fine metalwork, manuscript painting and sculpture attained a perfection in early medieval Ireland that has lost none of its power to delight and surprise us. The goldsmiths and silversmiths of the time produced a magnificent art in the service of the church and the nobility--their sacred vessels, reliquaries and personal ornaments are among the most spectacular archaeological treasures of western Europe. this book outlines the history of this art and sets it in its social context. The author explains the techniques used by the craftworkers to produce their spectacular effects, detailing the development of their style and their approach to design and construction."
Islamic Metalwork by Rachel Ward. Thames and Hudson Inc: NY. ISBN: 0500277311. 1993
"This book traces the range of materials and techniques, decorative motifs and diverse local styles of Islamic metalwork from the sevenths to the fifteenth century, with a wealth of illustrations from the British Museum and other major collections."
Sasanian Silver: Late Antique and Early Mediaeval Arts of Luxury from Iran. by University of Michigan Museum of Art: Ann Arbor. 1967.
Exhibition catalog and historical survey.
The Book of Secrets of Albertus Magnus of the Virtues of Herbs, Stones and Certain Beasts. Edited by Michael R. Best & Frank H. Brightman. Oxford University Press. 1973.
This work is a scholarly look at the Book, it's place in the Elizabethan era, and the scientific context of the period that produced it.
"The Book of Secrets was one of the most widely known works in a literature which gained great popularity during the Middle Ages. There were many books of 'secrets' dealing with the marvelous properties, real or imagined, of beasts, herbs, stones, and the human body..."
The attributes given to the various stones is most entertaining. ex: ''If thou wilt have good understanding of things that may be felt, and that thou may not be made drunken.' "Take the stone which is called Amethystys, and it is of purple colour, and the best in found in India. And it is good against drunkenness, and giveth good understanding in things that may be understood." In short...wear amethyst..avoid drunkeness.
This work is entertaining and a valuable source to determine which stones were used during the Middle Ages and possibly reasons why. Highly recommended.
Magical Jewels of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance Particularly in England. by Joan Evans. Dover Publications; ISBN:0486233677. Softback - 264 pages (1991 edition). [This work is out of print.]
"The author has examined nearly every lapidary of importance from the ancient world through the renaissance and beyond, and she presents the fruits of her research on the lapidaries of Diosorides, Pliny, Damigeron, Epiphanius, Marbode, Ibnu 'L Baitar, Albertus Magnus, Camillus Leonardus, Anselmus Boetius de Boot, and more. The author covers related areas as well, brining in information on the influence of the Church, the growth of the universities, medieval astrology, engraved gems, religious decorations, and so on."
I've read a few selections from this work and have found it interesting. The book is organized by time period. You can hone in on the lore for specific stones by utilizing the index of stones or the index of proper names
50 Masterpieces of Metalwork. Victoria and Albert Museum. ISBN: 291571068. Paperback-103 pages. 1951.
A very small book (4"x4" in size) highlighting 50 works within the V&A Museum. Of particular interest are: 9th c.(?) Pectoral Cross , The Armada Jewel (1588), South German Book Cover (1600), The Sion Gospels Book Cover (12th c), and several chalices, vessels, Ewers, candlesticks, and bowls. It was worth the $5 I paid for it, but not much more. Think of this book as a collection of trading cards on metalwork.
The Craftsman's Handbook "Il Libro dell' Arte" by Cennino d'Andrea Cennini. Translated from Italian by Daniel V. Thompson, Jr. Dover Publications. ISBN: 048620054x. Papberback-142 pages. 1960. [still in print and available from Dover.]
15th century C.E. guide to craftsmen methods including: gilding stone, making mosaics of crushed eggshell, fashioning saint's diadems, coloring parchment, making goat glue. You are told how to make green drapery, black for monk's robes, trees and plants, oils, beards in fresco, the proper proportions of a body and more. A must for your collection. It is interesting and tempting.
Dress Accessories : Medieval Finds from Excavations in London c. 1150 - c 1450 by Geoff Egan, Frances Pritchard. Seven Hills Book Distributors. ISBN: 0112904440. Paperback (September 1996)
This book has been called, "an absolute must for anyone deeply interested in medieval costuming" lynx@nwlink.com.
It describes pieces in excruciating, archeological detail. It is wonderful. Most illustrations are very clear, line drawings. Many sections of the book are introduced by an in depth overview of the style of dress accessory that lists what items are included in the category and diagrams and labels the terminology related to the group of items. This highly recommended book in now back in print.
Goldsmiths (Medieval Craftsmen) by John Cherry. University of Toronto Press.: Toronto. ISBN: 0802077110. Paperback (1992.)
A highly recommended overview of the goldsmith trade, guilds and work. Covers: Goldsmiths and Monasteries, Secular Goldsmiths, The Materials, The Goldsmith at Work, The Product, Organisation of the Craft, Contracts and Distribution, further reading, photographic credits, and an index. Excellent photographs. Very readable.
An Introduction to Courtly Jewellery by Anna Somers Cocks. Victoria & Albert Museum.: London. ISBN: 0112903908. Hardback (1980.)
An Introduction to Medieval Enamels
"A Late Medieval Love Jewel" by John Cherry. Appearing in Jewellery Studies. Volume 1. pages 45-47.
Masterpieces of Serbian Goldsmiths' Work: 13th-18th Century.
Mappae Clavicula: A Little Key to the World of Medieval Techniques. Edited by Cyril Stanley Smith & John G. Hawthorne. The American Philosophical Society: Philadelphia. ISBN: 0871696444. 128 pages pages. 1974. Includes a copy of the original text, translation, bibliography, appendices and an index.
Includes almost 300 "chapters" (generally a paragraph long) describing an amazing breadth of techniques ranging from glue recipes and pigment preparations to soap and candy making. Sample topics for the jeweler are: niello, cleaning silver vessels without damage, black inscriptions on silver, tin-copper alloy, various solder recipes, the polishing of gems, alum for etching iron, various dye recipes, dyeing bone, horns and woods, recipes for colored glasses and an aid for extinguishing fires.
Not all descriptions are usable as written. Some elements are left unsaid. An interesting read. Recommended interlibrary loan book.
Medieval European Jewellery With a Catalogue of the Collection in the Victoria & Albert Museum. by Ronald Lightbown. Victoria and Albert Museum. ISBN: 0948107871. 1992.
This is the gold standard book to jewelry of this period. It is extremely hard to find for purchase, but always available as an interlibrary loan request through your local public library. Buy it if you can find it and afford it. I'm still looking for my own copy.
Medieval Goldsmith's Work. By Isa Belli Barsali. Hamlyn Publishing Group: London. 1966. 157 pages.
A introductory work. Includes color photos, catalog entries, discussion and photo credits.
Medieval Jewellery from the eleventh to the fifteenth century. By David A Hinton. Shire Publications, LTD: UK. ISBN:0852635761. pages 1982. Approx 50 pages.
An excellent, short overview of Medieval Jewellery.
The Medieval Treasury: The Art of the Middle Ages in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Edited by Paul Williamson. V&A Publications. ISBN: 0948107383. Paperback-247 pages. 1998 edition. (first published 1986) [still in print]
"The objects chosen for this book, although only a selection of the Museum's outstanding holdings, illustrate perfectly the richness and variety of the medieval stylistic and iconographic vocabulary, from the early beginnings of medieval art as a development of Roman culture to the final flowering of the Gothic era." There is not much jewelry to speak of in the volume, but its value lies in the cross section of mediums, art forms, and objects represented that one can draw inspiration from.
"Round Wire in the Early Middle Ages" by Niamh Whitfield. Appearing in Jewellery Studies. Volume 4. pages 13-28.
The Sacral Treasure of the Guelphs
Secular Goldsmiths' Work in Medieval France: A History by R.W. Lightbown. The Society of Antiquaries of London: Dorking. ISBN: 0500990271 1978.
The Treatises of Benvenuto Cellini on Goldsmithing and Sculpture. Translated from the Italian by C.R. Ashbee. Dover Publications: New York. ISBN: 0486215687. Paperback-165 pages. 1967 edition. [still in print]
Translation of a 16th century guide for craftsmen. It is an enjoyable as well as informative read. Highly recommended as a primary resource on technique.
"The girdle-prayerbook or 'tablett': an important class of Renaissance jewellery at the court of Henry VII". by Hugh Tait. Appearing in Jewellery Studies 2. (1985) pgs. 28-58.
This is the only article that I have been able to locate on girdle prayer books. Hugh Tait is a well respected authority on historical jewellery. Period sources are cited throughout. Portraits showing the subject wearing or reading a prayer book, extant books and detail photographs are included.
An Introduction to Courtly Jewellery
The Treasures of Florence: The Medici Collection 1400-1700. Edited by Cristina Acidini Luchinat. Prestel. English Edition. ISBN: 3-7913-1867-5 Hardback - 228 pages. (1997). [still in print]
15th - 18th collection of works. "Originally bankers and merchants, the Medicis became identified as supporters of the workers and artisans of Florence in the late 14th century. Early in the 15th century the family began 300 years of almost uninterrupted control as popular leaders of the city....The focus of the Medicis' collection was jewellery, gems, cameos, ornaments and exotic objects." The book contains 166 full-color and 13 black and white illustrations.
Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery. by Diana Scarisbrick. Tate Publishing. ISBN: 1-85437-158-4 Soft back - 104 pages. (1995). [Still in print. Available from the Tate Gallery Bookstore if nowhere else.]
"Only a fraction of the jewels made for the Tudor and Jacobean courts have survive, and it is through the evidence of portraits painting and the artist's designs that their splendour and variety can be assessed. This was an exceptional period in the history of the jeweller's art, when the wealthy were gripped by a passion for display and recorded their favourite jewels in glittering portraits. This book surveys the making and wearing of jewellery from late medieval simplicity, through the full flowering of the art of the Renaissance goldsmith, to the emphasis on stones rather than settings in the reign of James I." The book contains 81 full-color illustrations.
The work is divided into four main sections; The Patrons: Monarchs, Courtiers, Citizens and Squires; Makers and Materials; Themes: Devotional, Memento Mori, Magical, Ciphers and Mottoes, Heraldic, Classical, Engraved Gems, Tudor and Stuart Dynastic Jewellery, Other Symbols and Emblems, Naturalism; The Jewels: Hair and Hat Ornaments, Earrings, Collars, Carcanets and Chains, Garter Insignia, Pendants, Brooches, Girdles, Bracelets and Armlets, Watches, Accessories. A bibliography and Index are included. An excellent book on the period with an outstanding collection of portraits that clearly show, in detail, the jewelry worn.
The Jewellery of Roman Britain: Celtic and Classical Traditions . by Catherine Jones. University of Michigan Press. ISBN: 0-472-10766-6 Hard back - 246 pages. (1996). [Still in print.]
A definitive work on the full range of personal adornments worn in Britain during the Roman period, first to fourth centuries AD. Abundant photographs and drawings. A heavy notes section and bibliography are included. An excellent book full of fabulous documentation and inspirational pieces.
Masterpieces of Serbian Goldsmiths' Work: 13th-18th Century. Introduction by Roy Radojkovic. Victoria and Albert Museum. ISBN: 09050209168 Soft back - 68 pages. (1981).
A catalog that accompanied a July 1 - August 2, 1981 exhibition organized by the Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade in conjunction with the Victoria and Albert Museum. It is a short catalog that describes and documents many more pieces than are actually pictured in the book. Period examples of rings, earrings, forehead ornaments, garlands, necklaces, vessels, belts, belt buckles, and religious crosses and works are photographed and cataloged. It was worth the $6 I paid for it, but not much more.
Material Culture in London in an Age of Transition: Tudor and Stuart period finds c 1450- c 1700 from excavations at riverside sites in Southwark. Geoff Egan. Part of the Museum of London Archaeology Series. ISBN: 190199239X Soft back - 256 pages. (2005).
"The finds published here from mostly waterlogged riverside sites in Sothwark, London, represent a rare assemblage of items in everyday use from the Tudor and Stuart periods, the majority dated to the later 15th and 16th centuries....Objects of leather (clothing, shoes and accessories), bone, wood and glass as well as metal are illustrated and catalogued by functional categories including dress and accessories, fixtures, fittings and furnishings, cutlery, kitchen equipment and vessels, and items attesting literacy and leisure pursuits including toys. Objects relating to production comprise equipment for textile working, non-ferrous and ferrous metalworking, leather working, woodworking, bone, antler and glass working. Proximity to the River Thames is reflected in the shipwrights' tools and fishing equipment. There are weights, coins, tokens and jettons representing commerce, horse equipment and a notable range of arms and amour fragments. Pilgrim souvenirs overlap with political and secular badges in the same manufacturing tradition. The metallurgical analyses of an extensive range of the metal objects are also reported on."
Includes photographs and descriptions of interesting silver wire worked objects.
"Braid, weave, and 'foxtail" by Leena Tomanterä. Appearing in Fenno Ugri et Slavi 1983: Papers Presented by the Participants in the Soviet-Finnish Symposium 'Trade, Exchange and Culture Relations of the Peoples of Fennoscandia and Eastern Europe' 3 May 1983. Helsinki: Suomen Muinaismuistoyhdistys-Finska Fornminnes Foreningen. 1984. pp. 70-76.
"The" discussion on chain styles associated with Vikings.
Die Schatzfunde Gotlands Der Wikingerzeit. by MÅRTEN STENBERGER. Written in German. Almqvist & Wiksell: Stockholm. Two volumes.
I was most interested in the Kap. VI Technik, Kap. & VII. Stemple Verzierung. In these sections are photos of and drawings of various chains and stamped metal designs. I believe the text discusses techniques used to create the pieces, but I have not tried to rough translate it yet. Includes extant trichinopoly pieces that are new to me.
From Viking to Crusader: The Scandinavians and Europe 800-1200. by Else Roesdahl and David M. Wilson. Rizzoli: New York. ISBN:0847916257. 1992.
Guld, Magt Og Tro: Danske guldskatte fra oldtig og middelalder. Gold, Power and Belief: Danish gold treasures from Prehistory and the Middle Ages. by Lars Jorgenson and Peter Vang Petersen. English translation by Jones Hines and Susan Peters. Danish National Museum. 1998. ISBN: 87-413-6346-9. Hard back - 346 pages.
Full of excellent photographs. The text is Danish and English. I borrowed it specifically looking for trichinopoly chain knitting documentation.
"The Halð. A Viking Hair Ornament" By Phebe Fjellström. Archaeology and Environment 4, 1985:119-124.
"In this paper, the Viking women's hair ornament will be examined from both an ethnological and archeological point of view...The word lad in the Norrøn languages is hlað and means 'ornamental band". The band could have varying degrees of fineness. Viking grave finds including hair bands are penetrated so are the Samish material about hair ornament. The paper tied to distinguish between married and unmarried women in the material. The find from Brotärn, Norrbotten, is also analysed."
Övergångstidens Metallkonst by AV Wilhelm Holmqvist. Almqvist & Wiksell: Stockholm. 1963.
The Viking-Age Gold and Silver of Scotland (AD 850-1100) by James Graham-Campbell. National Museums of Scotland: Hampshire. ISBN: 0948636629. 1995.
Viking Antiquities in Great Britain and Ireland [Multi volume set] H. Aschehoug & Co.: Oslo 1940. Of interest are: Part II: Viking Antiquities in Scotland, by Sigurd Grieg, Part III: Norse Antiquities in Ireland by Johs. Bøe, Part IV: Viking Antiquities in England with a Supplement of Viking Antiquities on the Continent of Western Europe by Anathon Bjørn and Haakon Shetelig, Part V: British Antiquities of the Viking Period, Found in Norway by Jan Petersen.
Viking Artefacts: A Select Catalogue by James Graham-Campbell. British Museum Publications Limited: London. ISBN:0714113549, 1980.
Viking Jewelry [Dissertation] by Ellen M. Janis. Carnegie Mellon University of Fine Arts. 1973
Viking Jewellery from the island of Gotland, Sweden. CD from Arkeodok.
The Vikings in England by Else Rosedahl et al. Penshurst Press Ltd: Kent. ISBN:0950743208. 1981.
The World of Vikings. CD from The York Archaeological Trust and the National Museum of Denmark.
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Last Updated: February 14, 2007